13 August 2017
There are some cities in the world that you can’t quite figure out but leave you with a lasting impression. I’d put Lisbon in that category. Lively yet fairly laid back, it’s quite unlike most capitals in western Europe. With its Mediterranean climate of hot and dry summers plus mild winters, surely such conditions are suboptimal to spawn chocolate artisans?
What then did I discover in Lisbon, aside from the tastiest pastel de natas (Portuguese egg tarts), freshest sardines and Ginja (sour cherry liquor) drunk from dainty chocolate cups?
Contrary to what the name suggests, the chocolates do not come from Ecuador. They are in fact made bean to bar in Porto, using beans sourced from Latin America, including Ecuador, and Africa.
Deceivingly small on the outside, be prepared to be awed by the depth and breath of chocolate experience in the cavern-like, retro shop. Bean to bar chocolates for the purists, retro wrapped flavoured bars and minibars for the more adventurous, and bright coloured jewels of bon bons spanning an expansive glass display, just to name a few. Indulge in the flavours of Portugal with the dark or milk chocolate with Ginja (Portuguese sour cherry liquor) or port wine ganache, or tease your tastebuds with the dark or milk chocolate with explosive caramel.
The creative minds of designer Celestino Fonseca, visual merchandiser Teresa Almeida and a Portuguese chocolatier are behind Chocolataria Equador, established in 2009. This explains the clever strategy and eye for design behind this brand.
It’s worth the hike halfway up one of Lisbon’s seven hills, along the Rua da Misericórdia, in the Bairro Alto or Old Town.
If you’re into the aesthetics of chocolate as much as the taste, then De Negro! should be on your Lisbon chocolate itinerary.
The ganaches and pralines here are a sight to behold, each perfectly handcrafted using a couverture blend made specially by Cacao Barry for this chocolatier. The couverture is called Saudade, available as 69% dark chocolate and 46% milk chocolate.
The bon bon flavours range from traditional to contemporary, with a common theme to showcase locally sourced Portuguese ingredients. For example, the sea buckthorn with sea salt ganache is made using sea salt sourced from Castro Marim in Algarve, the olive oil ganache is made using olive oil from Acushla in Alto Douro and the banana with aguardente (aged Portuguese brandy) ganache is made using aguardente from Ramos Pinto.
Isabel Leitao is the friendly face that greets you at the shopfront. She has come to co-own De Negro! with her husband, after first joining as an employee in 2010. They are joined by the chocolate genius that is Cristina Pocas, pastry chef and chocolatier that runs the chocolate kitchen.
De Negro! is located in Rua de Sao Bento, between Santa Isabel and Sao Memede.
You don’t need to wreck your brains over choices at Landeau. Fans come here for one thing, and one thing only. Landeau’s chocolate cake is a great example of needing only one earth shattering recipe to run a chocolate business. And believe me – the chocolate cake is life changing!
A thick dusting of cocoa powder sits atop a decadent layer of dark chocolate mousse that adorns a fluffy and soft base of dark chocolate cake. It’s a tri-layer slice of chocolate heaven.
Sofia Landeau lends her name to this chocolate creation. A London-trained interior designer, she started making her chocolate cake while working as a cafe manager in Lisbon. The rest, as they say, is history.
For a taste of arguably the best chocolate cake in the world, head to the LX factory or the Rua das Flores in Chiado.
Bettina and Niccolo Corallo Cafe
From the outside, the Bettina and Niccolo Corallo Cafe may look like any other, serving coffee and chocolate treats. Venture in and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. And if you’re a chocolate aficionado like me, you may end up staying for a bit.
The aromas here are mesmerising; a mixture of freshly roasted cocoa and coffee beans used to craft their unique selection of bean to bar chocolates and coffee. The chocolates are available as plain dark bars of 100%, 80% and 75% cacao or dark bars with inclusions of dried cherries, orange peel, ginger and hazelnut. The 100% cacao sorbet is perfect on a hot summer’s day while the hot chocolate radiates warmth in winter.
The chocolate experience at the Cafe starts with Bettina at the serving counter, who happens to be the wife of Claudio Corallo – one of the pioneers of craft bean to bar chocolates based in São Tomé. Their sons Niccolo and Amadeo run the back of the shop, roasting the precious commodities and turning them into tasty treats.
The Bettina and Niccolo Corallo Cafe is located along the Rua da Escole Politecnica in Principe Real.
The Verdict:
I’ve stumbled upon some unexpected but unforgettable chocolate experiences during my time in Lisbon. Suffice to say, the climate is no barrier to the budding chocolate artisans of Lisbon proudly showcasing their creative prowess to their more prominent European neighbours.
