Do Fads Equal Flavour?

19 February 2017

I’d hardly call myself an early adopter of anything. You won’t find me queuing up for hours inching to the front of a queue for a new gadget, apparel, food fad, or of a new restaurant or cafe. Hence, months after a good friend first sent me an article about in vogue chocolate experiences around town, I decide it’s time to seek them out!

The first experience comes courtesy of the makers of arguably the most photographed cake in Australia, and possibly the world. If you haven’t already guessed it, I’m referring to the Strawberry Watermelon Cake from Black Star Pastry. It’s one beautiful work of food art! But today, I’m not here for the “fruit” cake. I’ve read about Christopher The’s chocolate creations and am eager for a taste.

A cake made with chocolates from one of my favourite bean to bar makers, Amedei? And paired with layers of gianduja??? Indeed, the Amedei Chocolate and Hazelnut Torte is that and much more. It comprises alternating layers of hazelnut dacquoise, gianduja ganache and chocolate mousse made with Amedei’s Toscano Black 66% dark chocolate. If that’s not enough to get you salivating, it’s topped with ganache made with the highly acclaimed Amedei Chuao 70% and finished off with a piece of edible gold. This Torte does not disappoint in looks and flavour – regal, decadent, rich and chocolatey, it’s every chocolate lover’s dream. I can taste hints of the Chuao in the ganache and despite the heavy chocolate components, find it to be well balanced and not overly sweet.

The vegan chocolate popcorn cake is visually and artistically impressive. A mountain of caramelised salted popcorn, dusted with raspberry powder, sits atop a bed of vegan chocolate cake. The cake itself is dense but soft. The caramelised salted popcorn adds a textural dimension and accents of savouriness, and, together with the tartness of the raspberrry powder, provides a contrast of sweet, salty and mildly sour in every mouthful. The only snag with this cake is the construct of the towering popcorn – it’s just not possible to eat it and the cake in one mouthful.

The next stop provides a “rounded” experience. One of multiple flavours but with chocolate as my main attraction. Many rave on about the donuts at Melbourne-based Short Stop so I decide to find out why. I arrive early to beat the queues, and even have the opportunity to interact with the ladies behind the counter. I hone in on the Chocolate Cake Donut plus the interesting looking and sounding New Orleans Iced Coffee Cruller.

The Chocolate Cake Donut is purely that – chocolate cake-based donut, coated with a generous glossy coating of dark chocolate and dotted with cacao nibs. It’s denser than normal yeast-raised donuts and even sponge cake. It’s nice as far as chocolate donuts go, rich with layers of different chocolate textures, but I much prefer the combination in a cake.

The New Orleans Iced Coffee cruller is fried choux pastry, resembling the Spanish churro – crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. I enjoy the coffee infused choux pastry, achieved from dipping it in cold brewed coffee, and subtle hints of cocoa. However, I find the vanilla bean glaze to be overly sweet. Perhaps a dusting of vanilla sugar may work better in this combination.

Does the enjoyment of these chocolate fads stack up against the experience of consuming flavourful, artisanal chocolate? I could be swayed by the Amedei Chocolate and Hazelnut Torte………. but I think I’ll leave the cakes to the sweet tooth and cake lovers out there. Let them eat cake and I’ll stick to good ‘ol solid chocolate for now.

 

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