16 October 2016

During my recent visit to 1001 Senses in Munich, I was surprised to hear Inna, my newfound passionate chocolate friend, talk about Zokoko –  one of only a handful of artisanal “bean to bar” chocolate makers in Australia. The conversation triggered my memory of the two specialty bars of Zokoko sitting in my pantry, still yet to be savoured.

Amidst the many chocolate tastings and trips, I’m now ready to experience Zokoko‘s award-winning 72% Tranquilidad, touted to be one of their best, and the 78% Guadalcanal.

I learn that the Tranquilidad is made from very rare criollo cacao beans found only in the rainforests of the Beni, in the north eastern region of Bolivia. These beans, also referred to as Beniano or Cacao Silverstri, are characterised by its distinctive small pods and significantly smaller size of the beans. The Guadalcanal, on the other hand, is derived from trinitario cacao beans grown in the unique volcanic soil of the Solomon Islands.

First Impressions:

The outer packaging is sophisticated and tasteful, like a beautifully bound vintage book. Black, embossed boxes with colour-coded labels. Each label tells the story of the single origin cacao from which the chocolate is made and the unique flavours that it harbours. The inner gold wrapping is a nice touch, to align with the classy theme.

Tasting Notes:

The aroma of the Tranquilidad is pleasant and somewhat earthy, like a cross between mild mushrooms and prunes. As it melts in my mouth, the texture is smooth and even. I taste berries initially, slightly tart and mildly acidic on my tongue. This gives way slowly to a milder nutty flavour, like that of roasted cashew nuts.

The Guadalcanal is distinctly different, with a slight woody nose and hints of liquorice. As it melts on my tongue, robust and toasty flavours are released, almost charcoal-like. It’s as if I can taste the volcanic soil from which the cocoa trees have been grown in. There’s a tinge of bitterness and acidity on my tongue. The punchy flavours are replaced by a gentler fleeting finish of lemon peel, which leaves a refreshing after taste on my tongue and palate.

The Verdict:

I find the Tranquilidad and Guadalcanal to be fascinating, for their uniquely different taste experiences. As I’m eating each mouthful, I feel as if I’m being taken on a reverse journey, from the finished chocolate right through to the cacao trees and the environment in which they were cultivated. I understand that this is the experience that Zokoko has set out to create, at the same time celebrating the flavours of the single origin beans.

I take my hat off to Zokoko, as one of the pioneers of the “bean to bar” movement Down Under (and in a country where appreciation for fine, artisanal chocolates is still slowly on the uptake), for persevering to spread the love of chocolates…..from “bean to bar”.

8 October 2016

When I told my French colleague that I’d been invited to a tasting at Jeff de Bruges, his initial response was “Oh, Belgian chocolates are quite traditional”. I was somewhat surprised by his comment and it made me think “what’s in stored for my second visit and will I reach the same conclusion?”.

As I arrive at Jeff’s, Audrey, whom I’d been corresponding with recently, and the lovely shop assistant from my previous visit, Esther, are there to greet me. Of course, the heavenly sight and aroma of chocolates are inviting too. Audrey leads me to the rear of the shop where a platter of Jeff’s best has been beautifully laid out just for me!

After initial introductions and some exchanges in my very limited (petit peu) French, we dive straight into the chocolates. Several on the platter are familiar – I’ve purchased and tasted them during my first visit, so I hone in on the lesser known. Audrey points to the milk chocolate Scottish Terrier-shaped piece (named Warren). “It’s different” she says, when I inform her that I’d previously tried the dark chocolate version. I take my first bite and affirm that she’s right. It’s a textural teaser. The crunchiness of the hazelnut praline, complemented by the caramelised and toasted sesame seeds, hits you first, followed by the smoothness of the milk chocolate. It’s sweet, nutty and slightly buttery all in the one mouthful.

On the theme of atypical Belgian, Audrey brings me the Espelette. “You may like this one” she tells me. As I sink my teeth through the milk chocolate coating, I am met with a well balanced caramel ganache. But it’s as the caramel ganache dissolves that the Espelette surprise is revealed. There are hints of spicyness; not overpowering, just enough to let you know that it’s there. I could have done with a bit more spice but I understand – they need to cater to extreme levels of tolerance. Esther tells me that the spicyness comes from peppers or chillies from Espelette, a quaint village dedicated to chillies in the French Basque Country, south of the wine region of Bordeaux.

Next on the “to try” list are one each of Audrey and Esther’s favourite Juliette (Jeff’s version of the mendiant). The dark chocolate Juliette with caramelised slivers of almonds and dried berries is, in my opinion, a perfect post-dinner treat. The dark chocolate is the supporting act to the main stars, the caramelised almonds and berries. The milk chocolate Juliette is a play on textures, with a crunchy whole almond in the centre and chewy bits of nougat. I’m not initially wowed by it until Esther offers me another piece with more aniseeds. The aniseeds add a whole new dimension to the taste experience and somehow, to me, keeps the overall sweetness level of the Juliette in check. Aniseed and milk chocolate – nice! And once again, atypical Belgian.

Audrey tells me that I need to try the Orangette. It’s apparently a traditional Christmas treat in France. My initial reaction is lukewarm as I’ve had many a chocolate-coated candied fruit in the past and found them too sweet. However, I oblige and slice a piece off the baton-shaped treat. Think a cold serve of orange juice on a warm summer’s day. The candied orange is refreshing and sweet, but not overly sweet like candied or glacé fruit. And it pairs very well with the dark chocolate. Plus the proportion of fruit and chocolate is just right. A great palate cleanser, I reckon.

I turn my attention to Jeff’s ice cream, to which Audrey asks “Have you had them before?”. I admit that I have not, so Audrey enthusiastically leads me to the ice cream section. Esther recommends that I give the salted caramel and chocolate ice cream a go. I must say, I’ve tried variants the world over and this one actually rates quite highly on my list. Each flavour is distinct and well controlled so that it does not overpower the other. And the sweetness level is spot on, unlike many other commercial and store-bought offerings that have yet to strike the correct balance. A sure hit for the coming summer months. Just wished that I could have purchased some to take home.

At the end of my tasting experience, Audrey presents me with even more chocolates. I tell her that I will endeavour to spread the love of chocolates by hosting a tasting of my own.☺️

To conclude, I think Jeff de Bruges offers a classy but affordable chocolate experience that is beyond just traditional Belgian. They still have some way to go to resonate with the majority of locals Down Under, who are more accustomed to commercial store-bought offerings, but are definitely on the right track. I wish Audrey, Esther and the rest of the team every success as they continue to build Jeff’s chocolate presence Down Under and spread the love for Belgian chocolates, with a French flair!

 

 

 

1 October 2016

Australian Homemade in the Netherlands …….., retailing in Germany. An interesting scenario and, in my opinion, a fine example of globalisation in this day and age.

I have Printi, the lovely owner of Goetterspiese Chocolaterie in Munich, to thank for this recent discovery. I was driven by curiosity, above all else, when Priti suggested that I give these chocolates a go.

First Impressions:

The filled pralines and ganaches look distinctly  Australian, primarily because of the beautiful Aboriginal art inspired motifs on each piece. The finish is also rustic and somewhat laid-back, quite like Aussie culture. Definitely not your mainstream glossy and dainty Belgian praline or truffle.

The fillings are varied. Some are typical like almond, hazelnut, coffee, caramel and chocolate ganache, or combinations thereof. However, there are also interesting combinations like dark crispy macadamia with puffed rice, milk macadamia gianduja with cacao nibs, dark almond with orange and hazelnut, dark cranberry ganache with herbs, and white coconut and orange, just to name a few.

The generous, larger than bite-sized chocolates come in attractive pre-packaged boxes of 4s, 6s, 9s, 16s, 25s and more. However, one can also choose from the display of available varieties. I self-select a box of 6s, of mainly dark chocolate pralines and ganaches, based on Priti’s recommendation.

Tasting Notes:
The catalogue provided is both handy and practical. As you can see, I’m able to lay out the chocolates by type, and closely examine and contrast each one as I’m consuming it.

The crispy macadamia and puffed rice praline, in bittersweet dark chocolate, is a play on textures and contrasts the gianduja-like consistency of the macadamia. And the slight bitterness of the dark chocolate balances the overall sweetness of the combination. All in all, a pleasant taste experience and my top pick.

The double chocolate with coffee and hazelnut, in milk chocolate, is also worthy of a mention. It’s a triple layer of praline, thick coffee ganache and hazelnut marzipan, enrobed in milk chocolate. The coffee flavour is surprisingly controlled, allowing the attributes of the praline and marzipan to shine through. In fact, I would go as far as to say that the flavours are complimentary, although unconventional.

The bittersweet ganache with red fruit jelly, in dark chocolate, is a tad underwhelming. I was expecting a distinct layer of jelly but instead, was met with a berry flavoured butter-cream like layer sitting atop dark chocolate ganache, coated in dark chocolate.

The Verdict:
Rustic appearance aside, the chocolates are actually rather tasty. I can see why Australian Homemade appeals – unconventional, somewhat unique amidst the European chocolate culture that champions aesthetics as much as taste and quality.

Priti tells me that Australian Homemade is most popular with her younger clientele – those open to trying out the lesser known and experimenting with new flavours and unconventional combinations, which confirms my initial observation.

I find out, subsequently, that in addition to being a world away from the Land Down Under, these chocolates have in fact very little to do with the country aside from the Aboriginal Art inspired motifs, Australian inspired names (like Uluru Rock bar) and the use of macadamias. They could have had me fooled!

25 September 2016

The Roaming Chocoholic has arrived in the birth city of VOLVO – Gothenburg, Sweden. In no time at all, my Swedish colleague sets me off on yet another adventure by introducing me to the concept “fika”. Apparently, in the Swedish office in Gothenburg, everyone stops work and sits down for a “fika” at least once a week. Wow!

By definition, “fika” means “to have coffee”, usually accompanied by a sweet (or savoury) treat. And “fika” is ingrained in Swedish culture; almost sacred. Seeing that it’s so important, what do the Swedish do for sweets and more importantly, how do they eat their chocolates? Here’s a rundown of what I’ve discovered.

Goteborgspralinen

When in Gothenburg, do seek out Flikorna Kanold to savour Jeanna’s Goteborgspralinen or Gothenburg praline.

It’s dark chocolate ganache, covered in dark chocolate, with sprinkles of salt flakes on top. Perhaps hard to imagine how a few flakes of salt can elevate the taste experience, but it just does. The sweet and salty combination dances around in my mouth, as the smooth and rich ganache melts away. After your first, you’ll probably want more – which is why Jeanna sells them in boxes of 4s and 8s too.

As an accomplished chocolatier and businessperson, Jeanna is still going from strength to strength almost 20 years since she started handcrafting her chocolates in the basement of her original store in Victoria passagen (passage). Her mini empire has now expanded to include a store in Salunhallen (Market hall) and a cafe, all within a stone’s throw of each other.

Adelost

If you have an affinity towards blue cheese, then the adelost is for you. It’s Swedish blue cheese at its best. And at Flikorna Kanold, Jeanna has taken it one step further by incoporating it into dark chocolate ganache, and enrobing the ganache in dark chocolate.

The strong and savoury adelost, coupled with the mildly sweet and ever so slight bitterness of the dark chocolate, is a match made in heaven.

For the cheese and chocolate lovers amongst us, Jeanna also does a good goat’s cheese and honey dark chocolate ganache. Just a word of caution to the less inclined – the goat’s cheese is fairly strong!

Dammsugare

Translated into English, it simply means vacuum cleaner. However, to the locals, the word dammsugare (also known as the punschrulle or punsch roll) is fondly associated with a quintessential Swedish treat.

The traditional dammsugare comprises a mixture of crushed cookies, butter and cocoa, flavoured with a dash of punsch liqueur, then rolled in a layer of marzipan to form logs. To finish off, the ends are dipped in chocolate.

At Berzelii Choklad, this is just one of many chocolate treats that await you….provided you can find the shop. It’s tucked away on the first floor of a homewares’ shop, just a short stroll from Victoriapassagen.

Lingonberries

These are small and tart red berries, native to and found in abundance in Sweden and other Nordic countries. For a Swedish experience,  try the lingonberry in dark chocolate ganache at Berzelii Choklad. The tartness of the lingonberry pairs surprisingly well with the bitter sweet dark chocolate ganache, creating the perfect balance of tastes.

Berzelii’s blackberry dark chocolate ganache is also worthy of a go, with its intense berry flavour, as is their version of the salted caramel ganache, dark caramel ganache flavoured with a triangle of maldon salt.

Chokladbiskvi

The chocolate biscuit, more popularly known as the Sarah Bernhardt, is yet another favourite treat that I’ve discovered. Named after the famous French actress of the 19th and early 20th century, Sarah apparently fell head over heels for this sweet treat while on a visit to Denmark. It was subsequently named after her. The Swedish too have developed a fondness for it and named it their chokladbiskvi (chocolate biscuit in Swedish).

The base, made of chewy almond macaron or meringue,  is topped with rich chocolate butter cream. The combination is then dipped or enrobed in dark chocolate. Such sweet decadence. It’s no wonder Sarah was smitten from her first bite.

Daim

Daim is to the Swedish (and Nordics in general) what Hershey’s is to the Americans. You can find it at any supermarket and convenience store, at every train station and even at the airport. It’s crunchy almond brittle, coated in milk chocolate.

I had the pleasure of tasting what I would regard as the ultimate Daim treat, during morning tea at our Swedish office. Whipped cream sandwiched between two generous circular discs of crunchy almond brittle, the ends then dipped in dark chocolate. It’s the ultimate sugar fix for the mid afternoon slump. And if anyone knows what this is called in Swedish, please do let me know!

Suffice to say, based on my discoveries, the Swedish take their sweets and chocolates seriously too. So don’t underestimate the skills and creativity of Swedish chocolatiers and pattisiers. Seek these decadent Swedish sweet treats out and decide for yourself!

 

 

18  September 2016

The Roaming Chocoholic is off to great adventures again, this time for work! First stop – the city best known for steins of beer, pretzels, schweinbraten (roast pork loin served with a beer sauce), weisswurst (white veal and pork sausage), sauerkraut and the world famous annual beer festival, Oktoberfest (that is in fact celebrated in September?).

Is there much more to Munich beyond beers and the hearty, savoury offerings described above? Perhaps a sweeter, chocolate-accented side? Here’s what I’ve discovered, during my second visit to this modern and lively city, in the heart of the German state of Bavaria.

Alcoholic Truffles

If you prefer to eat your alcohol, infused in chocolate truffles, look no further than Elly Siedl Pralinen. There are plenty to choose from, from traditional varieties like the Marc de champagne, rum, cognac and cointreau truffles to the more exotic pina colada and caipirinha truffles. For those who aren’t fans of the latter, Elly Seidl also has broad offerings of non-alcoholic truffles, ganaches, pralines, rochers and bars to suit differing tastes.

It’s easy to comprehend how this home-grown Bavarian chocolate establishment has existed for almost a century. It’s always busy! In the short time that I’m in the shop, located near the bustling Marienplatz, there is no less than a dozen customers streaming into the cozy retail space.

My top picks are the feminine pink Elly, a white chocolate heart with a pink centre, filled with raspberry liquor flavoured butter cream, and the Arrak teesahne, a crisp dark chocolate filled with Ceylon tea infused cream and flavoured with Arrak (Asian liquor made from fermented rice or palm syrup).

Ornate Marzipans and Nougats

Fancy eating traditional treats of marzipan and nougat, turned into beautiful pieces of art that are lovingly handcrafted by its creator? Visit Sama-sama to experience first-hand Wilhelmine Raabe’s boundless creativity.  Her marzipans and nougats are almost too pretty to eat, each decorated with miniature candied fruit, flowers and/ or nuts. She also makes a selection of truffles, with flavours such as butter, ginger and coffee, and tasty biscuits to indulge in.

If you time your visit perfectly, you may catch Wilhelmine in action creating and decorating her marzipan and nougat masterpieces. There are apparently well over 100 variants, including the King Ludwig, the Venus Nipple, and the Hot, Chilli Seduction.

I’ve unfortunately forgotten the names of the chocolate nougat and blueberry marzipan that I sampled. I find them to be pleasant and flavourful, but a tad too sweet for me. I prefer the smooth and rich, butter flavoured dark chocolate truffle. The dark chocolate is intense and slightly bitter, with accents of butter.

Gourmet Chocolates
Fitting perfectly into its location, close to the glitzy shopping strip of Maximilianstrasse, is Stancsics Schoko Laden. The truffles, ganaches, pralines, marzipans, mandelsplitters (rochers) and bars have a classy French-Belgian flair about them, and are meticulously hand-made at the back of the shop.

According to owner Silvia Stancsics, the main inspiration for her flavour creations comes from local and seasonal ingredients. Of course, meeting the taste preferences of her regular clientele is also important, which is why the variety spans alcoholic and non-alcoholic offerings. And with no added preservatives, the chocolates should be consumed within 6 to 8 days. You can also find offerings from other European chocolate makers here including the reputed Italian Domori, Austrian Tiroler Edle, Danish Summerbird and French Mademoiselle de Margaux.

My recommendations are the balsamic vinegar ganache, a dark chocolate ganache flavoured with caramelised balsamic vinegar and coated in a thin, crisp dark chocolate shell, and the butter truffle, smooth, decadent butter cream coated in rich milk chocolate.

Beans for Health

Christine Luger is an interior designer by trade, with a consuming passion for all things chocolate. It’s no surprise that she runs the hippy and inviting Chocolate & More – a shop, cafe and appreciation “school” all bundled in one, dedicated to chocolates.

Christine is a strong advocate of the health promoting properties of raw cocoa beans. She tells me that consuming 3 whole beans a day is sufficient to meet our dietary intake of antioxidants, and offers me a tasting. I oblige and pop a raw Peruvian cacao bean into my mouth. It’s strong, nutty and definitely tastes like chocolate. Much better than medicine, to keep the lurgies at bay?

For those more inclined towards the chocolates, there’s a wide selection of truffles, pralines, ganaches, marzipans and bars from the northern Bavarian chocolate maker, Lauenstein. There are also chocolates and related products from neighboring countries such as France, Belgium and the UK. And the cafe specialises in hot chocolate, with contemporary concoctions like chilli and black pepper hot chocolate.

Pay Christine a visit, and her passion and enthusiasm for beans and chocolates will definitely rub off on you.

 

Global Chocolates Library

A global library of chocolates is how I can best describe 1001 Senses. They do not make their own but instead, showcase varieties throughout the world. Here, you will find prize winning, acclaimed chocolates from Akesson’s, Amedei, Ara, Domori, Francois Pralus, Marou, Valrhona, Michel Cluizel, Claudio Corallo and so much more.

And Inna is a walking encyclopedia of these chocolates. She is so knowledgeable, passionate and ever willing to impart her wisdom. I could spend the whole day just listening to her speak about each chocolate manufacturer, their unique offerings, the origins of the cocoa beans and the breadth of flavours in the different variants.

Inna recommends that I get myself a copy of the modern day chocolate encyclopaedia/ text book “Schokolade – Das Standardwerk: Der Schokoladetester 2015” (translates into Chocolate – The Standard Works: The Chocolate Tester 2015), by Georg Bernardini. Mental note to self………

I ask to sample artisan German chocolates and she recommends the Georgia Ramon, made bean to bar by Georg Bernardini himself and his partner Ramona, and the Puristique range by Coppeneur et Compagnon. More on these in a separate post.

At the end of my adventures in Munich, I can safely conclude that the Bavarians have a degree of fondness and level of appreciation for chocolates too, although not as evident as their love for beers. So if you’re in Munich and find yourself in need of a chocolate fix, do pop into one of these establishments and you will not be disappointed!