28 November 2016

There is no better way to enjoy a lazy Sunday afternoon than with good company…..and chocolate, of course! Thanks to the recommendation from my “I don’t really have a sweet tooth” friend (yeah, right?), I find myself ticking both boxes at the Abode Bistro & Bar, partaking in their recently launched chocolate-inspired high tea.

The establishment itself is fairly new and the decor, in my opinion, is best described as Scandinavian chic meets traditional English. Bright and mainly white interiors, complemented by the beautiful floral tableware and dainty cutlery.

Angelo, the restaurant manager, is on hand to greet us and help decipher the menu. It’s pretty simple – the sweet and savoury bites are standard features so the only decision required is the type of tea or beverage. Angelo recommends the rose with French vanilla tea to start with, the most popular of their tea selection. The tea arrives in a big floral teapot, freshly brewed – black tea with vanilla notes and the fragrance of rose. It’s sweet and pleasant consumed on its own, without sugar or milk.

Soon after, the full spread is brought to the table starting with the three-tiered high tea platter. The lowest tier comprises the savoury bites while the piece the resistance, the chocolate bites, is strategically placed in the middle. The top tier is a smorgasbord of raspberry meringue, coconut marshmallow and macerated fruit, to accompany the chilled chocolate fondue. The spread continues with prawn ceviche served in small glasses and a plate of grandma’s handmade scones with jam and cream.

We start with the savouries and work our way through the ceviche, assortment of finger sandwiches as well as hors d’oeuvres-sized offerings. I particularly enjoy the mini tarts.

I arrange my sweet bites on my plate, in preparation for my chocolate “journey” around the equator, and we decide on a second pot of tea – the original earl grey.

The Dominican Republic white chocolate tiramisu catches my eye at once. It’s a small log of moist sponge, covered in a layer of white chocolate and finished off with a coating of dark chocolate. The sponge is moist, soaked in just the right amount of coffee liquor, and the overall combination of coffee-soaked sponge, white and dark chocolate is well balanced. It turns out to be my favourite of the lot. The Indonesian chocolate mint crunch comes a close second. A textural teaser of mint chocolate centre encased in dark chocolate and topped with a chocolate crunch that resembles crushed corn flakes. In distant third is the Peruvian chocolate roulade – rolled up dark chocolate sponge cake with chocolate ganache; the chocolate lover’s version of the Swiss roll. The sponge is soft and fluffy, and pairs well with the smoothness of the rich chocolate ganache.

The rest of the sweet bites are a miss for me, particularly the chilled chocolate fondue. The molten chocolate should be served warm and the coconut marshmallows require more texture/ firmness. Perhaps dark chocolate mousse may have been a better option?

As we are about to finish, head chef Anthony Naylor comes over to introduce himself. I’m chuffed to have this special treatment☺️ We talk about the chocolates used to create the spread of sweet bites (he uses Willie’s Cocoa range of single origin chocolate bars) as well as the inspiration and creative efforts behind the pairing of the chocolates with the individual sweet (and savoury) creations. He speaks about the unique characteristics of the single origin bars and how these were top of mind in the development of each sweet bite. Anthony is a self-taught chef and admits to sometimes learning from his talented culinary school-trained subordinates, and to occasionally picking the brains of his circle of chef friends including Paul Kelly, judge on The Great Irish Bake Off. So humble and likeable.

As we continue on the topic of chocolate, my friend, Elliot, tells me that he has read each of my blog posts, and considers me his personal and virtual chocolate advisor. He purchased a bar of Amedei’s limited edition Porcelana while on holiday in Europe recently, and is saving it to enjoy with his lovely wife. It’s music to my ears!

As I reflect on the overall chocolate high tea experience, I conclude that it’s a good creative attempt, despite the few misses. I hope that Anthony and his team continue to innovate and build the profile of this unique experience that takes its diners on a chocolate journey around the equator, right here in Sydney’s Abode Bistro & Bar.

Does this rate as an ultimate chocolate experience? I’ll have to say it’s close, for being able to see, smell, taste, touch and discuss chocolates with the creative mind behind this experience, in the presence of great company, and to hear that my blog has inspired my good friend Elliot to appreciate chocolates in a completely different light!

P.S. A special thanks to hubby for his assistance with the photos and for coming along for this experience?

21 November 2016

Strolling through the corridors of my local shoppping centre, adorned with Christmas decorations and related paraphernalia, one can’t help but be reminded that the silly season and end of another year is almost upon us. So, in the spirit of the season, I’ve decided to set out on a mission to discover Sydney’s top festive chocolate picks and hopefully lay the groundwork for some serious Christmas confectionery shopping.

Christmas is in full swing at Haigh’s, Australia’s oldest chocolate maker. One is spoilt for choice from gift-wrapped boxes of chocolate ganaches, creams, truffles and pralines, chocolate hampers, enrobed nuts and solid chocolate balls to themed chocolates like the Grand Marnier fruit truffle bar, Christmas pudding brandy truffle and dark mulled wine ganache.

My top pick is the latter. The spiced red wine and citrus jelly, sitting atop a spiced dark chocolate ganache and enrobed in dark chocolate, is tasty and well-balanced – not overly heavy or sweet. The slight bitterness of the wine and citrus-infused jelly contrasts the sweetness of the ganache, and the chewiness adds texture to the chocolate.

At Kakawa, Jin Sun and her creative team have come up with a host of Christmas treats to suit all tastes. There are solid Christmas trees in dark, milk, white or a combination thereof, baubles, tree decorations made entirely of chocolate as well as festive-themed filled chocolates.

Check out the gingerbread-less and Christmas pudding ganaches, and egg nog cup buttercream. I only managed to try the latter, nutmeg and rum flavoured buttercream encased in white chocolate, as the first two had sold out. The consistency of the buttercream resembles egg nog and the flavours of Christmas are definitely there. However, not being a fan of white chocolate, I find it too sweet for my liking.

Christmas offerings at  Josophan’s include solid chocolate Christmas trees, hollow baubles and snowmen, gift wrapped hampers and a selection of imported chocolate marzipans and alcoholic chocolates from Germany (Niederegger) and France (Abtey). For those eager to get their hands on the Christmas-themed ganaches and truffles, you’ll just have to wait a little longer. According to Hannah, the next generation of “Josophan’s”, these will be made in the main store in Leura and driven down to Sydney starting in December. We wait with bated breath for the arrival of these chocolate surprises!

Festivities have definitely started at Melbourne-based Koko Black. The theme for this Christmas is “Playtime”. The range includes the plum pudding bites (bite sized plum pudding-flavoured white chocolate balls),    chocolate snowmen, dark chocolate gingerbread stars, milk chocolate gingerbread hearts, hazelnut praline balls and many attractively foil-packaged selections of solid and filled chocolates.

If you’re a fan of the Danish Flodeboller – fluffly marshmallow on a biscuit or wafer base and coated in a thin chocolate shell, then do give Koko Black’s version a go. It’s strawberry marshmallow with a jelly centre, on a thin biscuit base and coated in milk chocolate. I’m told that there are more Christmas-themed specials for the chocolate cabinet arriving in December, so keep a lookout for these.

I didn’t manage to make it to Jeff de Bruges or Oh Boo, unfortunately. Audrey and Fanny, if you’re reading this post, do share with us your top picks for Christmas.

To my readers, happy chocolate shopping and indulging! If you’re concerned about over-indulging during this silly season, just share your chocolates around – it’s also the season for giving after all?

13 November 2016

I have a confession to make. I’m a cacao novice. Until recently, I too have been guilty of using the word “cacao” interchangeably with the word “cocoa”?

I can’t help but notice that, of late, establishments from health food shops, supermarkets and boutique grocers right through to fruit markets have jumped on the cacao bandwagon peddling powders, bars, snacks, drinks and even toiletries. Some artisanal chocolate makers have even started selling “raw” cacao and chocolate bars.

What’s the big deal with cacao and how is it different from good ‘ol cocoa?

Cacao vs. Cocoa

Like many,  I used to think that they were one and the same.

True, they are both derived from the same plant – the Theobroma cacao, and start off as cacao beans. The beans are extracted from the cacao pods or cabosses, fermented then dried. However, the point of distinction begins after this.

In general, to produce cacao, dried unroasted cacao beans are cold pressed to produce cacao solids and cacao butter. Cacao powder is made from cold milling the cacao solids while the cacao bar is the product of mixing a proportion of the solids with the butter.

Cocoa, on the other hand, is produced by first roasting the cacao beans. Upon roasting, the beans become cocoa beans. The cocoa beans are then subjected to several key processing steps namely winnowing, grinding/ milling, refining and conching, as explained in my previous post “Let’s Talk About: Bean to Bar“. The resultant working chocolate is tempered to create the desired characteristics of the final chocolate.

Some manufacturers may roast cacao beans at lower temperatures under 50ºC, in accordance with the definition of “raw” foods, and subject the beans to the same processing steps as cocoa. They refer to their finished product as cacao or raw cacao, which has led to some controversy in the chocolate world.

The Case for Cacao vs. Cocoa

Consensus amongst the majority of health food fanatics is that cacao is better for you. It is claimed that roasting, typically to high temperatures, and processing destroys the nutritional, health-promoting properties of the beans (which were previously discussed in my post “Let’s Talk About: Chocolates for Health“).

However, many chocolate makers believe that cacao is no healthier than cocoa. This is because the raw cacao beans are subjected to heat-inducing fermentation and drying prior to roasting, sometimes uncontrolled and in excess of 50ºC, which renders the beans “cooked”. In addition, unroasted cacao beans may have been poorly handled from a hygiene/ food safety perspective, thereby exposing consumers to the risk of food borne illnesses from common pathogens such as Salmonella, E. Coli, Staphylococcus and Listeria.

My Verdict

As a scientist, self-confessed chocoholic and occasional foodie who appreciates the benefits of healthy eating and exercise (yes, I know I’m conflicted on so many fronts?), I can clearly see both sides of the argument. However, for me, the key determining factor is the overall chocolate experience.

I decide to run my own “trial” comparing the taste and texture of chocolate made from cacao versus cocoa. I’ve pitched Roberto Catinari’s 80% bar against Natures Delight’s Raw Organic Chocolate 85%.

Roberto Catinari’s 80% bar (sweetened with sugar): The nose is nutty, slightly earthy. The mouthfeel is smooth and pleasant, and the chocolate tastes nutty with hints of caramel. The finish is mild and fleeting.

Nature Delight’s Raw Organic Chocolate 85% (sweetened with coconut nectar): The nose is woody and I detect a smell closely resembling volatile chemicals. The texture is slightly gritty and as it melts, leaves a strongly astringent mouthfeel and bitter, woody taste. This bitter taste remains long after the chocolate has melted.

On the basis of this un-scientifically validated “trial”, I think I’ll stick to cocoa-derived chocolate for now, thank you very much, and resort to other avenues to get my health kick!

6 November 2016

Oh yay! What a week it has been……Week long birthday celebrations, lots of feasting and chocolates of course?. And, to top it off, I’ve finally made it to Oh Boo!

Located in Barangaroo, Sydney’s newest business and entertainment precinct, the shop occupies a cosy retail space amongst classy cafes and restaurants, and skyscrapers of new offices and apartments. The perfect location, I think, to showcase Fanny’s premium selection of European-inspired, vegan and kosher artisanal chocolates.

The decor is chic, like the chocolates. Dainty and ornate ganaches and truffles, displayed under glass cloches, are the centre piece and main attraction. According to Fanny, the Belgian trained chocolatier and co-owner, the flavours are inspired by local and seasonal Australian ingredients. This is clearly reflected in the selection on offer including the Australian lavender, honey and rose ganache, ginger and mandarin ganache, strawberry jelly and mint ganache, and the blood orange caramel with pomegranate truffle.

The strawberry jelly and mint ganache is a pleasant surprise. I was expecting punchy mint flavours but instead, the strawberry jelly shines in this combination. The thin layer of jelly complements the smoothness of the dark chocolate ganache, with the mint playing an ever so subtle supporting act. The blood orange and pomegranate infused thick caramel milk truffle is refreshing but a tad sweet. Perhaps a bit more acidity from the orange plus a hint of bitterness from the peel is required to counteract the sweetness.

When Fanny senses my more discerning taste for chocolates, she asks Rachel, the shop assistant, to bring out the “secret stash”. Rachel pulls out a selection of organic raw cacao mini bars from a hidden cabinet, and my eyes light up immediately. These bars are apparently reserved for the chocolate connoisseurs. Made bean to bar using a blend of criollo and trinatario cacao beans, and sweetened with only coconut sugar, they are healthier too.

Fanny and Rachel encourage me to sample the 70% raw cacao bar with reishi and Siberian pine nuts. What an interesting combination! I learn that reishi is a special variety of Japanese mushrooms, also known as lingzhi to the Chinese, with known medicinal properties. The reishi adds to the earthy, toasty aroma of the chocolate. The flavours are robustly tannic and bitter, with the pine nuts adding texture to the bar. I personally like it but acknowledge that it will not suit all tastes. The raw cacao bar with spirulina and cashew, infused with lemon essential oil, is comparatively “lighter”. The lemon shines through in this bar, with the cashew adding a textural twist.

I’m unreserved in my opinion that appreciation for fine, artisanal chocolates is still slow on the uptake in Australia. However, with ambassadors like Oh Boo chocolates unrelentingly leading the way and creating novel chocolate experiences, at a competitive price point, I am confident that tastebuds and preferences are surely headed in the right direction. Keep the creativity coming Fanny, and best of luck as Oh Boo settles into the buzzing new precinct of Barangaroo!

30 October 2016

Have you ever wondered how chocolate looked, smelled and tasted, before the advent of complex machinery and processes, and the evolution of scientific knowledge around it? Back to a period in history where chocolate was highly esteemed as an elixir of health, a symbol of wealth and power, and ultimately the “Food of the Gods”?

Admittedly, I had not previously given this much thought. However, a chance encounter led me to discover chocolate, closer to its native form.

It is widely accepted that chocolate originated from ancient civilisations in Mesoamerica, namely the Mayans and Aztecs. The Aztecs ground cocoa beans into a coarse molten liquid, using a traditional stone grinder called a “metate”. The resultant molten cocoa was mixed with spices and sometime chilli, and consumed as a bitter beverage called xocoatl. When the Spanish discovered the Americas, they took this knowledge back to Europe and modified xocoatl to a sweet beverage by adding sugar.

Today, the “metate” has given way to varied and advanced methods and tools for chocolate production, used by artisanal and commercial chocolate makers alike. However, one chocolate maker has bucked the trend by choosing to hold on to the traditional method of production, using only ground cocoa beans and sugar as base ingredients, thereby creating an unique old world chocolate experience in modern times.

At first glance, the chocolate bars of Antico Dolceria Bonajuto, located in the little known town of Modica in Sicily, Italy, are undifferentiated – packaged in plain dark brown boxes with simple, coloured labels and the company logo. But, as I unwrap the chocolate, the difference becomes apparent. The chocolate looks grainy and uneven, like cocoa liquor that has been left to solidify. If I didn’t know better, I’d have thought that the chocolate is “off” or unfinished product.

The aroma is toasty and earthy, like roasted coffee beans. These characteristics come across more prominently in the 80% bar with Mothya salt. As I break off a piece, I note the coarseness of the texture. I can see the fine cocoa nibs and granules of sugar, with the naked eye. I learn that this effect is the result of the chocolate being “cold worked” at a temperature below the melting point of sugar.

I put a piece in my mouth and let it melt. The grainy texture on my tongue feels unusual. As it slowly dissolves, the chocolate breaks up into smaller slumps. This is attributed to the absence of the conching process, which further refines the texture of chocolate to what  we all associate today with finished chocolate.

The 70% bar has fruity flavours and, because the sugar crystals are still intact, I get the alternating bitter sweet taste. The 80% bar is more earthy and bitter but, as it dissolves, the Mothya salt starts to bring out the sweetness of the chocolate, leaving a sweeter finish. The lingering after taste from both bars is that of mild bitterness, with toasty notes.

I’m still undecided if I like the taste and texture of ancient, unconched chocolate. But one thing is for certain – I thank the Spanish for their ingenuity in adding sugar to xocoatl many centuries ago, hence paving the way for the evolution of the chocolate that we all love and enjoy today?