16 January 2017
Beneath the attractive layer and typically layers of packaging; past the glossy, well-tempered chocolate and venturing afield from the many unique aromas and flavours derived from the cacao beans. Have you ever spared a thought for the story behind the chocolate that you consume?
At ChocolART, I had the privilege of meeting an inspiring young man, Jan, whose passion and knowledge spurred me to broaden my perspective on chocolate, well beyond its manufacturing process, the choice of bean(s) and even the creativity of the chocolate maker or chocolatier.
“The Project”, as Jan calls it, is his work in Latin America where he focuses on sourcing unique and rare cacao beans, and works with the farmers who cultivate, harvest and ferment these beans, either in small groups or cooperatives. It’s not just about the chocolate. For Jan and the company that he represents, Original Beans, it’s about ensuring sustainability of the wild cacao trees and varieties from which their chocolates are made. It’s also about the farmers receiving fair compensation for their cacao, thereby benefitting their families and communities, and acquiring necessary skills to remain relevant in this modern world. What a purposeful job and fine example of socialpreneurship!
Through Original Beans‘ “One Bar: One Tree” conservation program, for every chocolate bar that is sold, the cacao farmers receive additional remuneration to ensure that a new cacao or neighbouring shade tree is planted.
Now, let’s steer back towards the more familiar end of the value chain, to the beans and chocolates. How do they actually taste? I had the opportunity to sample the entire range at ChocolART and purchased 3 to savour at my leisure – the Piura Porcelana Peru 75%, Beni Wild Harvest Bolivia 66% and Femmes De Virunga Congo 55%.
Piura Porcelana Peru 75%
The Porcelana cacao is highly regarded in the chocolate world for its rarity, white translucent appearance and exquisite flavour. The Piura Porcelana, which produces ultra white cacao and was discovered close to extinction in the Piura Valley in Northern Peru, is even rarer and heightens the excitement surrounding the resultant chocolate.
This bar has rich fruity aromas of berries, and a slight hint of earthiness. The chocolate is well tempered, as evidenced by the characteristic snap. The initial flavour is that of citrus peel, slightly acidic but refreshing. This gives way to the flavours of sweet berries and fleeting notes of prunes. The chocolate leaves a tad of acidity on my tongue. It’s a pretty good bar of chocolate with lots of fruity flavours – just as I’d expect in a Porcelana.
Beni Wild Harvest Bolivia 66%
The rediscovered, rare Beniano cacao is completely wild and grows in the depths of the Bolivian Amazon where access is only by boat. Imagine the effort required for harvesting!
This bar has the aroma of mushrooms and a scent that closely resembles Manuka honey. The chocolate is well tempered. The initial flavour is of mild mushrooms but this opens up to reveal lengthy notes of sweet fruits and hints of hazelnuts. The finish is subtle – I can just detect notes of roasted tea leaves. Once all the chocolate has melted, my mouth is left fresh. Such complex aromas and flavours in a chocolate – I’m surprised to have enjoyed this more than the Piura Porcelana!
Femmes De Virunga Congo 55%
The rare Virunga cacao is cultivated in the Virunga National Park, within the East African Rift Valley, and mainly by women, hence the name “Femmes De Virunga” or women from Virunga.
The aroma is toasty, nutty and slight earthy. The colour of the chocolate is a cross betweeen milk and dark chocolate, the result of the high cocoa content of this milk chocolate bar. The tempering is adequate, as evidenced by the sheen on the surface and the slight snap of the chocolate. As the chocolate melts in my mouth, the texture is creamy and smooth. The flavour is distinctly nutty, with hints of caramel. I can also detect subtle notes of roasted coffee beans at the end. Once all the chocolate has melted, it leaves a very mild bitter aftertaste in my mouth. The flavours are bold and interesting, as far as milk chocolate goes. If only all milk chocolates tasted this way….
I must admit that I’m no environmental or social activist. You won’t find me hanging off the Rainbow Warrior anytime soon. However, my chance encounter and thought provoking conversation with Jan has spurred me to give due consideration to the ecological, environmental and social impact of the chocolates that I consume, beyond the superficial packaging, glossiness of the temper and even the exquisite aromas and flavours. Very simply, to enjoy my chocolates with a conscience.
