16 October 2016
During my recent visit to 1001 Senses in Munich, I was surprised to hear Inna, my newfound passionate chocolate friend, talk about Zokoko – one of only a handful of artisanal “bean to bar” chocolate makers in Australia. The conversation triggered my memory of the two specialty bars of Zokoko sitting in my pantry, still yet to be savoured.
Amidst the many chocolate tastings and trips, I’m now ready to experience Zokoko‘s award-winning 72% Tranquilidad, touted to be one of their best, and the 78% Guadalcanal.
I learn that the Tranquilidad is made from very rare criollo cacao beans found only in the rainforests of the Beni, in the north eastern region of Bolivia. These beans, also referred to as Beniano or Cacao Silverstri, are characterised by its distinctive small pods and significantly smaller size of the beans. The Guadalcanal, on the other hand, is derived from trinitario cacao beans grown in the unique volcanic soil of the Solomon Islands.
First Impressions:
The outer packaging is sophisticated and tasteful, like a beautifully bound vintage book. Black, embossed boxes with colour-coded labels. Each label tells the story of the single origin cacao from which the chocolate is made and the unique flavours that it harbours. The inner gold wrapping is a nice touch, to align with the classy theme.
Tasting Notes:
The aroma of the Tranquilidad is pleasant and somewhat earthy, like a cross between mild mushrooms and prunes. As it melts in my mouth, the texture is smooth and even. I taste berries initially, slightly tart and mildly acidic on my tongue. This gives way slowly to a milder nutty flavour, like that of roasted cashew nuts.
The Guadalcanal is distinctly different, with a slight woody nose and hints of liquorice. As it melts on my tongue, robust and toasty flavours are released, almost charcoal-like. It’s as if I can taste the volcanic soil from which the cocoa trees have been grown in. There’s a tinge of bitterness and acidity on my tongue. The punchy flavours are replaced by a gentler fleeting finish of lemon peel, which leaves a refreshing after taste on my tongue and palate.
The Verdict:
I find the Tranquilidad and Guadalcanal to be fascinating, for their uniquely different taste experiences. As I’m eating each mouthful, I feel as if I’m being taken on a reverse journey, from the finished chocolate right through to the cacao trees and the environment in which they were cultivated. I understand that this is the experience that Zokoko has set out to create, at the same time celebrating the flavours of the single origin beans.
I take my hat off to Zokoko, as one of the pioneers of the “bean to bar” movement Down Under (and in a country where appreciation for fine, artisanal chocolates is still slowly on the uptake), for persevering to spread the love of chocolates…..from “bean to bar”.