13 May 2017
Deep within the jungles of the equator and tropics lies a hidden secret. One that has existed unharnessed, in symbiosis with its flora and fauna, period unknown. A secret, only known to select tribes who call these jungles their home. A secret, only recently unmasked by man’s growing desire for novel and unique taste experiences.
This secret, you may have guessed, is cacao. Wild, with minimal human intervention. Presumably hybrids of the key varieties – forastero, criollo and trinitario.
Over the past weekend, I was fortunate enough to catch up with Ning – owner and founder of Chocolate Concierge. A person so passionate about novel and unique chocolate taste experiences that he goes “cacao hunting” in the depths of the Malaysian jungles. A physicist turned app developer in his past life, Ning is part of a small but growing movement of artisan bean to bar chocolate makers in South East Asia. I’m surprised to discover that he’s been in the business for 9 years; almost a “veteran” in the bean to bar world!
I’m super keen to discover Chocolate Concierge‘s Pahang origin bars, a first for me in terms of Malaysian single origin, bean to bar artisan chocolates. Ning has done one better. He’s brought some along for tasting as we talk about all things cacao and chocolate.
Temuan – Pahang Origin
We start off with the Temuan 70% dark chocolate, named after the tribe that collects the wild cacao pods in the jungles of Pahang, the state in the heart of Peninsular Malaysia. Ning extracts the beans then ferments and roasts them, hence the term “Pod to Bar” on the label. I take my first whiff and immediately, my senses are awash with the scents of dried plum/ prunes, honey and traces of spiciness. The chocolate has a sharp snap, an indication of good tempering – not an easy feat in the Malaysian humidity and heat, I might add. The chocolate is acidic and fruity, the flavours resembling prunes. There’s a hint of coffee and mild smokiness, but a clean aftertaste.
Semai – Pahang Origin
Next up, the Semai 70% dark chocolate. This is apparently the very first batch, made from wet beans harvested and extracted by the Semai tribe in Pahang. Ning meticulously ferments and roasts the precious beans, to showcase their unique flavour profile. The aromas are distinctly tropical and very different to the Temuan bar – think mangoes and lanzones (tropical fruit also known as langsats). The chocolate is well tempered, as characterised by the sharp snap. This bar is also acidic and fruity, with a tropical slant, most prominently tasting of mangoes with the freshness of green apples. It has a long finish and leaves a clean aftertaste in my mouth.
Cacao Treat
Ning surprises me with the piece de resistance, when I think that things can’t get any better. He presents me with two beautiful and distinctly different cacao pods. We break one of them open and savour the tasty morsels encapsulated within it. The beans are surrounded by a layer of pulp or mucilage, the flavours of which closely resemble the tropical fruit mangosteen; fruity, slightly sour and pleasantly sweet. The beans, on the other hand, are rather tasteless. This has certainly given me a better appreciation for the downstream processes of fermentation and roasting, which brings out the flavours and unique characteristics of the beans.
The Verdict
Ning has done justice to his wild cacao discoveries. I’m impressed by the depth and complexity of flavours in both single origin bars. However, my clear favourite is the Semai for its tropical fruitiness and freshness.
I am grateful for this experiential chocolate session and wish Ning the very best as he continues to unveil, perfect and showcase the beauty and uniqueness of wild Malaysian cacao to chocolate connoisseurs around the world.
Does this rate as an ultimately chocolate experience? Of course! For the opportunity to savour the “fruit of the gods” in its most natural state and to discover the unique flavours of wild Malaysian cacao.