31 January 2017

I spent the past weekend in the sweltering summer heat, in the capital of the Sunshine State of Australia. Also known as Brisbane, Bris-Vegas and Brissy to locals, the summer temperatures here average in the high 20s to early 30s degrees Celcius – essentially, the melting point of chocolate. Can chocolates still be enjoyed under these conditions and if so, where?

Noosa Chocolate Factory is the homegrown favourite of many. Here, you can pick and mix as much or as little to your hearts content, and sample along the way. Established just over a decade ago, Noosa Chocolate Factory started out as a contract manufacturing business, eventually finding its niche and going direct to consumer with chocolate-enrobed, Australian-grown nuts, berries and fruits, as well as nut brittles.

The chocolate is made bean to bar from cacao beans sourced directly from farmers in Papua New Guinea and available as 77% dark, 40% milk and 37% white cacao chocolate. The added attraction is the freshness of the chocolates – apparently “made from scratch in the last 72 hours” in their factory in Noosa. My top seasonal picks are the chocolate baby strawberries (they’re actually not that small!), chocolate cherries and the Bowen mango macadamia.

If you drop by their cafe and retail outlet, “The Dark Chocolatier”, just five doors down from their flagship store, do try their hot or iced chocolates. I had the 73% dark cacao skinny iced chocolate and it was delish!

Brownies are brownies…..until you sink your teeth into Dello Mano‘s brownies. These are something else. Born out of passion by the husband and wife team of Deb and Bien, the Dello Mano brownies are lovingly handcrafted with the finest ingredients, right down to the Belgian chocolate made from Ghanaian cacao beans. The jewel-like squares of brownies, wrapped in brightly coloured foil, are almost too pretty to eat.

Phoebe, the owner’s daughter, tells me that the Luxury Classic is the original flavour and their most popular, and offers me a sample. It’s decadent, rich, chocolatey and very moorish. I can definitely appreciate its appeal and end up with several brownies to take home with me, based on Phoebe’s recommendation. Aside from the brownies, Dello Mano also creates a tantalising array of cakes and biscuits to satisfy many a sweet tooth.

A personal favourite of mine is Murielle Vuilleumier Swiss Chocolatier. Here, I am assured of a feast, not just for my belly but also my eyes. Murielle never fails to amaze with her luxurious, artisanal selection of ganaches, pralines and truffles. They are works of art to be admired – vibrant, colourful, and perfectly tempered and shaped.

Murielle takes inspiration from several sources in creating her flavours, including her Swiss heritage (The Matterhorn) and suggestions/ requests by her regular clientele (Alexandria’s Mint).

Another destination worthy of a mention is Couverture & Co. Chocolatier and owner Jessica handcrafts a selection of generous, larger than bite-sized ganaches and truffles in the kitchen at the back of the shop. Here, you can sample traditional favourites like the dark chocolate ganache and peppermint cream, as well as more adventurous flavours like Milo, Banoffee and Blackforest.

I conclude that, thanks to the advent of the humble air conditioner, chocolates can certainly be enjoyed in the Sunshine State. In fact, despite the unfavourable summer conditions, one should not be too quick to discount Brisbane as a chocolate destination. Otherwise, as I’ve discovered, you’ll miss out on some worthy, homegrown chocolate experiences here!

22 January 2017

I’ve recently discovered the pleasures of the Fortunato No. 4. Not quite the newest perfume from Chanel or a lost piano concerto from Mozart. Brought back from the brink of extinction, it’s touted to be the rarest on earth and a direct descendent of the original from a century ago.

The Fortunato No. 4 is Pure Nacional Cacao. Why the fascination and hype, you may ask? You may recall, in my post “Let’s Talk About: Cocoa Beans“, that I discussed the three key varieties of cocoa or cacao beans – Forastero, Criollo and Trinitario. Some consider the Nacional to be the stand-alone fourth variety, which has created much controversy but also excitement in the chocolate world.

Re-discovered in the Maranon Canyon in Peru less than 10 years ago, the Fortunato No. 4 derives its name from the owner of the property from which the “mother tree” was found – Don Fortunato and the number of the sample tested and verified by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) to be genetically Pure Nacional cacao.

The Pure Nacional cacao yields a unique mixture of white and pale purple beans, generally in a 40:60 ratio. This is as opposed to the other varieties that typically produce either 100% of white or pale purple beans. This unique mixture is thought to contribute to the exquisite aromas and flavours of the resultant chocolate.

Only a select number of chocolate makers and chocolatiers worldwide have exclusive rights to the Fortunato No. 4 and to sell chocolates made from it. One such chocolate maker is Eclat Chocolate in the US, whom, in collaboration with celebrity chefs, food authors and TV personalities Eric Ripert and Anthony Bourdain, created and popularised the lavishly priced “Good and Evil Bar“, a 72% dark cocoa bar made with Fortunato No. 4 cacao.

D’Anvers Single Origin Fortunato No.4

Down Under, chocolatier Igor Ven Gerwen, of House of Anvers in Tasmania, is the holder of the exclusive rights to the Fortunato No. 4. Igor purchases couverture chocolate made from these highly prized beans and crafts them into just two varieties of single origin bars – the D’Anvers Fortunato No. 4 Peru 68% Organic Pure Nacional and the D’Anvers Fortunato No. 4 Peru 47% Cacao Milk Pure Nacional.

I recently purchased a bar of the D’Anvers Fortunato No. 4 Peru 68% Organic Pure Nacional, to experience and fully appreciate what all the hype and excitement is about.

The packaging has earthy tones, reflective of the habitat of the cacao, and colourful motifs resembling leaves of the cacao trees but also the pods. Simple but meaningful. There are two small bars per pack, vacuum sealed in a separate inner packaging.

As soon as I tear open the inner packaging, I am immediately greeted by the inviting aroma of fruits, reminiscent of ripe plums. I break off a piece; the chocolate has a good snap. The initial flavours are intensely fruity, like a medley of sweet stone fruits with hints of lychee. This is followed by lengthy notes of toastiness, think roasted cashews. There is an ever so slight bitterness on the tongue as the chocolate melts, which lingers after all the chocolate has disappeared. My palate is left fresh, despite this.

The Fortunato No. 4 is good. Actually, it’s really good. However, it’s not the most intense, exquisite chocolate that I have tasted. Nevetheless, throw in the intrigue, controversy and excitement surrounding the prized Fortunato No. 4 cacao and one can truly appreciate this rare bite of history.

16 January 2017

Beneath the attractive layer and typically layers of packaging; past the glossy, well-tempered chocolate and venturing afield from the many unique aromas and flavours derived from the cacao beans. Have you ever spared a thought for the story behind the chocolate that you consume?

At ChocolART, I had the privilege of meeting an inspiring young man, Jan, whose passion and knowledge spurred me to broaden my perspective on chocolate, well beyond its manufacturing process, the choice of bean(s) and even the creativity of the chocolate maker or chocolatier.

“The Project”, as Jan calls it, is his work in Latin America where he focuses on sourcing unique and rare cacao beans, and works with the farmers who cultivate, harvest and ferment these beans, either in small groups or cooperatives. It’s not just about the chocolate. For Jan and the company that he represents, Original Beans, it’s about ensuring sustainability of the wild cacao trees and varieties from which their chocolates are made. It’s also about the farmers receiving fair compensation for their cacao, thereby benefitting their families and communities, and acquiring necessary skills to remain relevant in this modern world. What a purposeful job and fine example of socialpreneurship!

Through Original Beans‘ “One Bar: One Tree” conservation program, for every chocolate bar that is sold, the cacao farmers receive additional remuneration to ensure that a new cacao or neighbouring shade tree is planted.

Now, let’s steer back towards the more familiar end of the value chain, to the beans and chocolates. How do they actually taste? I had the opportunity to sample the entire range at ChocolART and purchased 3 to savour at my leisure – the Piura Porcelana Peru 75%, Beni Wild Harvest Bolivia 66% and Femmes De Virunga Congo 55%.

Piura Porcelana Peru 75%

The Porcelana cacao is highly regarded in the chocolate world for its rarity, white translucent appearance and exquisite flavour. The Piura Porcelana, which produces ultra white cacao and was discovered close to extinction in the Piura Valley in Northern Peru, is even rarer and heightens the excitement surrounding the resultant chocolate.

This bar has rich fruity aromas of berries, and a slight hint of earthiness. The chocolate is well tempered, as evidenced by the characteristic snap. The initial flavour is that of citrus peel, slightly acidic but refreshing. This gives way to the flavours of sweet berries and fleeting notes of prunes. The chocolate leaves a tad of acidity on my tongue. It’s a pretty good bar of chocolate with lots of fruity flavours – just as I’d expect in a Porcelana.

Beni Wild Harvest Bolivia 66%

The rediscovered, rare Beniano cacao is completely wild and grows in the depths of the Bolivian Amazon where access is only by boat. Imagine the effort required for harvesting!

This bar has the aroma of mushrooms and a scent that closely resembles Manuka honey. The chocolate is well tempered. The initial flavour is of mild mushrooms but this opens up to reveal lengthy notes of sweet fruits and hints of hazelnuts. The finish is subtle – I can just detect notes of roasted tea leaves. Once all the chocolate has melted, my mouth is left fresh. Such complex aromas and flavours in a chocolate – I’m surprised to have enjoyed this more than the Piura Porcelana!

Femmes De Virunga Congo 55%

The rare Virunga cacao is cultivated in the Virunga National Park, within the East African Rift Valley, and mainly by women, hence the name “Femmes De Virunga” or women from Virunga.

The aroma is toasty, nutty and slight earthy. The colour of the chocolate is a cross betweeen milk and dark chocolate, the result of the high cocoa content of this milk chocolate bar. The tempering is adequate, as evidenced by the sheen on the surface and the slight snap of the chocolate. As the chocolate melts in my mouth, the texture is creamy and smooth. The flavour is distinctly nutty, with hints of caramel. I can also detect subtle notes of roasted coffee beans at the end. Once all the chocolate has melted, it leaves a very mild bitter aftertaste in my mouth. The flavours are bold and interesting, as far as milk chocolate goes. If only all milk chocolates tasted this way….

I must admit that I’m no environmental or social activist. You won’t find me hanging off the Rainbow Warrior anytime soon. However, my chance encounter and thought provoking conversation with Jan has spurred me to give due consideration to the ecological, environmental and social impact of the chocolates that I consume, beyond the superficial packaging, glossiness of the temper and even the exquisite aromas and flavours. Very simply, to enjoy my chocolates with a conscience.

8 January 2017

A city with meandering cobblestone streets lined with charming medieval timber-framed houses, each with a bilingual street name. A river encircling the Old Town that separates the old from new and runs into canals around the city, creating the most picturesque photography backdrop. And as Christmas approaches each year, a transformation into an enchanting winter wonderland complete with themed fairy lights, intricate decorations adorning medieval houses, a giant Christmas tree and the most amazing Christmas markets.

Sound like your kind of holiday destination? Then pack your bags and head to Strasbourg – capital of the European Union; also aptly named Capitale De Noel or Capital of Christmas.

And if this isn’t enough of a draw card, perhaps you’ll be enticed by the fusion of French and German reflected in the Alsatian cuisine, world renowned bottles of Riesling, tastiest gingerbread in a multitude of variants and endless patisseries at every street corner – the most per square metre that I’ve encountered, even surpassing Paris! I’ve not even started on the chocolates…..

Thanks to my colleague and Strasbourg native, Fred, hubby and I were well equipped for our gastronomic discovery of the many sweet and savoury delights on offer, chocolates included.

Jacques Bockel is a must visit – not only for its colourful and inventive flavours of pralines, ganaches and truffles, but also the endless varieties of chocolate tablets.

Here, you will find the cutest Christmas les maenneles. These are chocolate man-shaped miniature figurines, Jacques Bockel‘s interpretation of the traditional Alsatian Christmas treat of little man shaped brioche buns. The les maenneles, albeit sweet, are tasty and come in various different flavours ranging from hazelnut and almond praline to salted caramel, rhubarb ganache and gingerbread.

Don’t forget the Nut Alsace spread while you’re here. It’s a hazelnut chocolate spread in 4 flavours – think Nutella, only tastier. Ask for a tasting, straight from the fountain, and you will not be disappointed.

Maison Caffet (House of Caffet) is a heaven for the sweet tooth. It is also home to World-Champion and Meilleur Ouvrier de France patissier and chocolate maker Pascal Caffet’s masterful sweet creations. Walk past the mouth-watering window display and you’ll like be drawn in to admire and savour the tantalising masterpieces, from the many mesmerising cakes, tarts, macaroons, profiteroles and eclairs to dainty, jewel-like bon bons of ganaches, pralines, rochers and mendiants.

Hazelnuts and almonds feature heavily in the bon bons, but there are also unique flavours like bergamot and exotic fruits, all coated in 70% Venezuelan dark chocolate, 40% milk chocolate or white chocolate.

Head to Mireille Oster Pain d’Epices, anytime of the year, and you’ll be greeted by the familiar aroma of Christmas – a marriage of cinnamon, clove and star anise. Ask for a sampling before you purchase the many variants of gingerbread, from traditional to more contemporary flavours like China Nights (rice wine with goji berries), Sour Cherry (sour cherries with hazelnuts and kirsch) and Canneliesel (dark chocolate with cashew nuts). These bite-sized treats come beautifully packaged and ready to take home as a souvenir or gift.

Other notable chocolatiers worthy of a visit are Yves Thuries, twice Meilleur Ouvrier de France winner – one for iced confectionery and the other for pastries and confectionery, and Alain Batt.

The French never fail to amaze with their mastery, creativity and eye for detail in weaving the tastiest and most breathtakingly beautiful pastries and chocolates. In Strasbourg, visitors and locals alike are treated to this plus the addition of Germanic influence, giving rise to a unique gastronomic, sweet accented experience only found in the Alsace region.

Does this rate as an ultimate chocolate experience? I must admit that this has been more of a well rounded gastronomic experience with savoury, meat-based dishes, a healthy dose of choucroute (sauerkraut), the most eye pleasing pastries, cakes and tarts, and crisp, fruity Rieslings as the main attraction, and chocolate playing the supporting act. I will be back Strasbourg, to savour more of your Alsatian delights, Rieslings and chocolates!